A water stain on the ceiling means water reached the drywall from above, and the source is one of three things: the roof, a plumbing line, or condensation. The brown ring is minerals the water left behind as it dried; it is harmless, but the leak that made it is not, and it will happen again until the source is fixed. Below, how to tell the three sources apart in ten minutes, what to do today, what the repair costs in 2026, and the signs that mean hurry.
| Repair | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry stain: stain-block primer and repaint | $150 | $250 | $400 |
| Cut and patch one soft area, up to 16 inches | $225 | $350 | $500 |
| Replace a section, texture and paint, 10 to 25 sq ft | $300 | $550 | $800 |
| Sagging ceiling or wet insulation replaced | $500 | $1,000 | $1,500 |
| Fix the leak itself (roof or plumbing), separate | $150 | $600 | $2,500 |
Texture match is the difference between a $250 repair you can see and a $350 repair you cannot. A proper ceiling drywall repair matches the existing knockdown, orange peel or smooth finish and paints corner to corner, because a painted patch on an older ceiling always shows.
Hurry when the stain is spreading while you watch, when the ceiling sags or bulges, when water is dripping, when a light fixture sits inside the stain, or when the smell is musty. Wet drywall loses its strength within a day or two and a saturated ceiling can come down; water in a light fixture is a shock and fire risk, so switch that circuit off at the breaker. Mold starts within 24 to 48 hours in wet drywall, and a moldy section costs $800 to $2,500 to replace.
A ceiling water stain is a message, not a blemish: find the source first, stop it, let the ceiling dry, then repair. Expect $150 to $400 for a dry stain, $225 to $500 for a patch, and $500 to $1,500 if the ceiling has sagged, plus the cost of fixing the roof or pipe. Painting over it without stopping the leak is the one thing not to do.
Only if the leak is fixed and the drywall is dry and firm. Use a stain-blocking primer, oil-based or shellac, then two coats of ceiling paint. Ordinary paint over a stain lets the ring bleed through within weeks, and paint over an active leak hides the problem while the ceiling keeps getting weaker.
$150 to $400 to prime and repaint a dry stain in 2026, $225 to $500 to cut out and patch a soft area, and $500 to $1,500 for a sagging section with wet insulation. Repairing the roof or plumbing that caused it is a separate cost of $150 to $2,500.
Start with timing: a stain that grows after rain is the roof; one tied to a shower, toilet or washer upstairs is plumbing. Then look 3 to 6 feet uphill from the stain along the joists, because water travels before it drops. A moisture meter, about $30, shows the wettest point.
A handyman does the small and medium repairs, installations and maintenance a home collects between big projects, usually several in one visit: sticking doors, drywall holes, fence posts, deck boards, faucets, light fixtures, TV mounts and caulk. A handyman does not do work that needs a trade license or a permit: new circuits, gas lines, roofing, structural changes. In 2026 that visit costs $60 to $130 per hour or a flat $100 to $350 per repair. Here is what is included, what is not, and when to call one.
| Job type | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Doors: sticking, sagging, not latching, weatherstrip, locks | $85 | $150 | $250 |
| Drywall: holes, cracks, nail pops, texture and paint | $100 | $200 | $500 |
| Fence and gate: posts reset, panels, gates re-hung | $150 | $300 | $600 |
| Deck: boards, railings, stairs, sealing | $150 | $400 | $1,000 |
| Fixtures: faucets, toilets, lights, fans on existing boxes | $150 | $250 | $500 |
| Mounting and assembly: TVs, shelves, furniture, grab bars | $75 | $175 | $300 |
| Exterior: caulk, dry rot trim, stucco patches, gutters, pressure washing | $150 | $350 | $800 |
Beyond repairs, handymen handle seasonal maintenance (gutter cleaning, weatherstripping, filter and detector changes), move-in and move-out punch lists, rental turnovers, and aging-in-place installs such as grab bars, railings and ramps. A residential handyman service that fields employees rather than subcontractors can usually cover a whole list in one scheduled visit.
Hourly rates run $60 to $130 nationally, with independents at the low end and licensed, insured companies at the high end, plus a minimum charge of $125 to $200. Flat prices for common repairs cluster between $100 and $350. A half day of bundled small jobs costs $300 to $600 and a full day $500 to $900. Materials are usually extra or supplied by the homeowner; a pro who supplies them adds a 20 to 50 percent markup. The full picture is in the companion guide on handyman cost.
Call a handyman when the job is under a day, needs no permit, and involves fixing or installing something that already has its wiring, plumbing or framing in place. Call a licensed contractor when the job changes the house, needs a permit, or sits in a licensed trade. When a list has both, book the handyman for the small items and let them flag the ones that need a trade; a good one will say so on the walk-through rather than attempt them.
A handyman is the right call for the repairs, installs and maintenance that need skill but not a trade license, at $60 to $130 per hour or $100 to $350 per job in 2026. Write the whole list, ask about license, insurance and pricing model, and book one visit. Save the new circuits, gas lines and roofs for the trades.
A handyman does small and medium repairs and installs across many trades in a single visit, usually under a day and without a permit. A contractor is licensed for larger, permitted or specialized work such as remodels, roofing, electrical and plumbing systems. Many states set a dollar limit, often $500 to $2,500, above which a contractor license is required.
Minor plumbing, yes: faucet and toilet replacements, garbage disposals, supply lines, drain unclogging and fixture swaps on existing pipes. Water heaters, repiping, gas lines and work inside walls that needs a permit belong to a licensed plumber in most states.
Whether they are licensed or registered where the state requires it, whether they carry liability insurance, whether the quote is flat or hourly and what the minimum charge is, who supplies materials, and whether the work carries a warranty. A written price before the visit is the sign of a professional.
A single repair such as a door adjustment or a drywall patch takes 30 to 90 minutes. A bundled list of five or six small jobs fills a half day of 3 to 4 hours, which is the most cost-effective way to book, because the trip and minimum charge are spread across every item.
It depends on the state and the dollar value of the job. About half the states let a handyman work without a contractor license below a set job value: $1,000 including materials in California, Arizona, Nevada and Oregon, $2,500 for non-structural work in Florida, up to $30,000 in North Carolina. Texas and about 20 other states set no statewide handyman license. Everywhere, licensed trades such as electrical and plumbing need a trade license at any price. Below, the thresholds, the trades, and how to check a pro in two minutes.
| State | Requirement | Threshold | Basis |
|---|---|---|---|
| Washington, Maryland | Registration required | above $500 | per job |
| California, Arizona, Nevada, Oregon, Virginia, Hawaii | Contractor license | above $1,000 | per job |
| Georgia, Florida (non-structural), Arkansas, Iowa | License or registration | above $2,000 to $2,500 | per job |
| Tennessee, Louisiana, Alaska, Mississippi | License | above $3,000 to $10,000 | per job |
| North Carolina | General contractor license | above $30,000 | per job |
| Texas, Colorado, New York, Ohio, and about 20 others | No statewide handyman license | city rules apply |
Some states count the year, not the job: New Mexico’s handyman certificate covers up to $7,200 in annual revenue and Idaho registers contractors above $2,000 a year. Thresholds change; California’s went from $500 to $1,000 on January 1, 2025, and bills to raise Arizona’s limit come up most sessions. The state contractor board website has the current number.
Electrical, plumbing, HVAC, gas, roofing and structural work are licensed trades in most states regardless of price. Florida is the clearest example: a handyman can take a $2,000 fence or drywall job without a license but cannot legally replace a $40 outlet, because electrical work belongs to licensed electrical contractors. Washington requires a specialty electrical license for all electrical work. The practical line in every state is the same: like-for-like fixture swaps sit in a gray zone, anything that adds wiring, pipe or structure is licensed work.
A licensed, insured and bonded handyman company lists all three on its site because the license is only one of the three protections.
In most states an unlicensed contractor cannot enforce a contract or lien a home, which sounds like a benefit until a job goes wrong: there is no board to complain to, no bond to claim against, and the homeowner’s insurer can deny a claim caused by unlicensed work. Licensed pros carry a bond, typically $15,000 to $25,000, and answer to a board that can suspend them. For a $200 repair the risk is small; for a $2,500 deck railing it is not.
A handyman needs a license when the job passes the state threshold, $500 to $2,500 in most states that have one, or when the work is a licensed trade at any price. Look up your state’s number, ask for the license and the insurance certificate, and verify both on the board’s website before the first visit. Two minutes of checking covers every risk on this page.
For any job over $1,000 including labor and materials, yes, a CSLB contractor license. Below $1,000 a handyman can work unlicensed under the minor-work exemption as long as no permit is required and no employees are used. Electrical and plumbing beyond simple swaps need the trade license regardless.
Not for general repairs under $2,500 that are non-structural, such as drywall, painting, fences, doors and trim. Florida does require a licensed contractor for electrical, plumbing, HVAC, roofing, gas and structural work at any price, and counties can add local registration.
No statewide handyman or general contractor license exists in Texas. Electricians, plumbers and HVAC technicians are licensed by the state, and cities such as Dallas, Houston and Austin have their own registration and permit rules for larger work.
A license is permission from the state to do the work. A bond is money set aside, usually $15,000 to $25,000, that a customer can claim if the contractor fails to perform. Insurance pays for damage or injury on the job. A good pro carries all three and can show each.
A door will not latch because the latch bolt is missing the hole in the strike plate, almost always by less than a quarter inch. The usual cause is a door that has sagged on loose hinge screws, and the second most common is a frame that has shifted with the seasons. Four checks, done in order, find and fix nine doors out of ten in about ten minutes with a screwdriver, a file and one long screw. Here is the sequence.
Close the door slowly and watch the latch meet the strike plate. Rub lipstick or chalk on the tip of the latch bolt, close the door, and open it: the mark on the strike plate shows whether the latch is landing high, low or short of the hole. Landing high or low means the door has moved on its hinges. Landing short, not reaching the plate at all, means the door is not closing far enough, usually from a swollen edge or a warped weatherstrip. Check the gap around the door too: a wedge-shaped gap, wide at the top of the latch side, is the signature of a sagging door.
Open the door and lift it by the knob. If it moves, the hinge screws are loose. Tighten every screw on all hinges. If a screw spins without biting, the hole is stripped: pull it, push in two or three wooden toothpicks or golf tees with wood glue, snap them flush, and drive the screw again. Then the trick that fixes most latch problems: replace one short screw in the top hinge, the one nearest the doorstop, with a 3-inch screw. It reaches through the jamb into the wall stud and pulls the top of the door back toward the hinge side, raising the latch 1/16 to 1/8 inch. Test the door. Many are finished here.
If the latch still misses by less than 1/8 inch, file the strike plate opening in the direction of the miss with a half-round metal file, a few strokes at a time, until the bolt drops in. If the miss is larger than 1/8 inch, filing weakens the plate; instead unscrew it, move it the distance of the miss, trace the new position, chisel the mortise slightly deeper if needed, fill the old holes with glued toothpicks, and screw it back. A latch that lands short is fixed differently: plane or sand the edge that rubs, or replace a bulging weatherstrip. A deadbolt that will not throw follows the same rules with its own strike.
A door that latches in one season and not the other, gaps that change through the year, and cracks running from the corners of the frame are settling or moisture in the framing, not a hinge problem. Filing the strike every six months is chasing the symptom. That is the point where a door repair that rehangs the door and squares the jamb, or a look at drainage and foundation, saves the repeat visits.
Mark the latch, tighten the hinges, drive one 3-inch screw into the top hinge, then file or move the strike plate: that sequence fixes most doors that will not latch in about ten minutes and costs under $5 in parts. If the door drifts with the seasons or the frame has cracked, the fix is the door and jamb, and a professional visit runs $85 to $200 in 2026.
Because the door has moved a fraction of an inch relative to the strike plate. Loose hinge screws let the door sag, humidity swells the door or frame, and seasonal settling shifts the jamb. Lipstick on the latch tip shows the direction of the miss in one closing.
Tighten the hinges and replace one top-hinge screw with a 3-inch screw into the stud, which lifts the latch side of the door. If the latch still misses by under 1/8 inch, file the strike plate opening; if it misses by more, move the plate. Total parts cost is under $5.
$85 to $200 in 2026 for adjustment, hinge tightening and strike plate work, typically a 30 to 60 minute visit. Rehanging a door that has warped or squaring a jamb that has shifted runs $150 to $350, and a new slab door installed in the existing frame $425 to $700.
Wood doors and frames swell with humidity and shrink when the air dries, moving the latch up to 1/8 inch through the year. Setting the strike plate for the middle of that range, and sealing the door's top and bottom edges so they absorb less moisture, usually ends the seasonal problem.
Fence repair costs $300 to $950 nationally in 2026, with the average job landing near $618. Resetting a single rotted post runs $150 to $400, straightening a leaning section $250 to $600, and re-hanging a sagging gate $150 to $525. The material, how many posts have failed, and whether the damage is one spot or a whole run decide where your fence lands. Below, what sets the price, the cost of each common problem, and when replacing beats repairing.
| Problem | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reset or replace one wood post | $150 | $275 | $400 |
| Leaning section straightened, two posts | $250 | $400 | $600 |
| Replace one panel or 8-foot section | $150 | $300 | $400 |
| Replace loose or broken pickets, per 10 | $75 | $150 | $250 |
| Single walk gate re-hung or rebuilt | $150 | $300 | $525 |
| Double or driveway gate | $400 | $600 | $800 |
| Chain link post straightened | $50 | $75 | $100 |
| Typical whole repair visit | $300 | $618 | $950 |
Gates are their own category. A gate that drags or will not latch is rarely a gate problem; it is the hinge post moving. A proper gate repair resets or braces that post, rehangs the gate square with new hinges and adjusts the latch, which is why it costs more than the hardware alone.
Count the posts. A wood fence is worth repairing until roughly a third of its posts have failed. Past that, the remaining posts are the same age and will go one by one, and a new fence at $15 to $25 per linear foot for wood, or $25 to $35 for vinyl, costs less than serial repairs. Storm damage follows the same rule: one or two sections down is a repair at $150 to $400 per section; a whole run flattened is a replacement of that run. Boards, pickets and gates are always worth repairing on a fence whose posts are sound.
Budget $300 to $950 for a typical fence repair in 2026, with $618 as the national average, and about $150 to $400 per rotted post. Push on every post before you price anything; the posts tell you whether this is a repair or a replacement. Fix the gate and any leaning sections first, then decide whether the rest of the fence has enough life left to justify blending in new boards.
$250 to $600 for a leaning section in 2026, because the fix is resetting the one or two posts that rotted at ground level, not the panels. A single post reset in fresh concrete runs $150 to $400; the boards are usually reused.
Sometimes. A post that is sound above ground but rotted at the base can be braced with a steel post-mender driven into the footing for $75 to $150, which buys several years. A post that is soft along its length is replaced.
$150 to $525 for a single walk gate and $400 to $800 for a double or driveway gate in 2026. The price covers re-setting or bracing the hinge post, re-hanging the gate square, new hinges and a latch adjustment. New hardware alone is $30 to $120.
Usually for sudden events such as a storm, a fallen tree or a vehicle, minus your deductible. It never covers rot, termites, age or neglect. With deductibles of $1,000 to $2,500, most single-section repairs cost less than a claim.
When about a third of the posts have failed, when three or more sections are down, or when repair quotes pass half the price of a new fence. A new wood fence costs $15 to $25 per linear foot in 2026, so a 150-foot fence runs $2,250 to $3,750.
Gutter cleaning costs $100 to $400 per visit nationally in 2026, with most homeowners paying around $160 for a single-story home and $250 for two stories. Priced by length, that is roughly $1 to $2.25 per linear foot. The spread comes down to how many stories the ladder has to reach, how many feet of gutter there are, and how long since the last cleaning. Below, what changes the price, when to do it, and what skipping it actually costs you.
| Home | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single story, 150 to 200 linear feet | $100 | $160 | $250 |
| Two story, 200 to 250 linear feet | $150 | $250 | $400 |
| Three story or steep, complex roofline | $210 | $330 | $450 |
| Per linear foot, any home | $0.95 | $1.50 | $2.25 |
A good cleaning includes more than scooping leaves. Every run is cleared, each downspout is flushed until water exits at the bottom, loose hangers are tightened, and the finished gutters are photographed so you can check the work without climbing. A cleaning that skips the downspouts is not finished; a clogged downspout overflows just like a clogged gutter.
Gutter guards cut the frequency to about once a year but do not eliminate cleaning; fine debris still builds on top of the screens and inside the downspouts.
Water that cannot travel goes exploring. Clogged gutters overflow at the back edge and rot the fascia and soffit; a fascia board repair runs $300 to $800 per section. Overflow stains siding, floods planting beds, and in cold climates freezes into ice dams that push water under shingles. Water pooling against the house is the most expensive outcome: foundation drainage repairs start around $1,500 and basement waterproofing runs into the thousands. Set against two cleanings a year at $160 to $250 each, the maintenance is the cheap option by a wide margin. If the fascia or soffit is already soft, a gutter and fascia repair in the same visit is the way to stop the damage from spreading.
Plan on $100 to $250 for a single story and $150 to $400 for two stories, twice a year, in 2026. Ask for downspout flushing and photos of the finished gutters to be included in the price, and add a third visit if you live under heavy trees. Compared with a rotted fascia or a wet foundation, it is the least expensive water problem you will ever solve.
$150 to $400 in 2026, with most homeowners paying around $250. Two-story homes cost 50 to 75 percent more than single-story homes because taller ladders, extra safety measures and slower repositioning add time to every run of gutter.
Yes in cash, no in risk. DIY costs are a $20 scoop and hose attachment, but ladder falls are among the most common home-maintenance injuries, and two-story work needs a proper extension ladder and a second person. Most homeowners hire out anything above one story.
Under heavy trees, usually yes. Guards cut cleanings to about once a year, and at $7 to $15 per linear foot installed they pay back in three to five seasons. In open yards with few trees they rarely earn their price, because two cleanings a year cost less than the guards.
About one to two hours for a typical single-story home and two to three hours for a two-story home, including flushing the downspouts. Heavy buildup, gutter guards and steep roofs push a visit toward half a day.
Hiring a handyman costs $100 to $350 for a typical single repair in 2026, and most homeowners pay about $200. By the hour, licensed and insured companies charge $60 to $130 nationally, and a half day of bundled small jobs runs $300 to $600. What you pay depends on how clearly the job is scoped, who buys the materials, and how hard the work is to reach. Here is the full breakdown.
There are two honest ways to price handyman work. An hourly rate fits small jobs where the scope may grow once a wall is open; you pay for the time it takes, plus materials. A flat price fits defined jobs; the number is agreed before work starts and cannot move on you. The 2026 national picture:
| Job | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Handyman hourly rate, independent | $50 | $65 | $80 |
| Handyman hourly rate, insured company | $75 | $95 | $130 |
| Minimum charge or trip fee | $75 | $150 | $200 |
| Half day, 3 to 4 hours of small jobs | $300 | $450 | $600 |
| Full day, 6 to 8 hours | $500 | $700 | $900 |
The third way to price a job is the vague verbal estimate that grows at the end. If the price will not go in writing before the work starts, keep calling around.
Flat prices in 2026 cluster in a narrow band for the jobs people book most. Materials are usually extra, or supplied by you.
| Job | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Door that sticks or will not latch | $85 | $150 | $250 |
| Drywall patch, doorknob-sized hole | $100 | $175 | $350 |
| Light fixture or ceiling fan on an existing box | $150 | $225 | $450 |
| Faucet replacement | $200 | $300 | $500 |
| TV mounted on drywall | $150 | $225 | $300 |
| Shelving, grab bars, small installs, each | $75 | $125 | $200 |
Larger fixed-price work such as a fence post reset or a full drywall sheet lands between $400 and $900, because it takes most of a visit.
Bundle the list. The trip and the minimum charge are fixed costs. One visit that knocks out the sticking door, the wobbly fan, the cracked caulk and the leaning shelf costs far less per job than four separate calls; in practice the per-job cost drops 30 to 50 percent. Walk the house, write the list, and hand it over all at once. Two more habits help: buy the materials the pro specifies before the visit, and send photos so the quote is final rather than a range.
Budget about $200 for a single repair and $300 to $600 for a half day in 2026, and expect $60 to $130 per hour if the job is billed hourly. Get the price in writing before anyone starts, supply your own materials when you can, and save up the small jobs for one visit. Do those three things and you will land at the low end of every range on this page.
Between $60 and $130 per hour nationally. Independent handymen without insurance sit at $50 to $80, while licensed and insured companies charge $75 to $130. Most also carry a minimum charge of $125 to $200, so a ten-minute fix costs about the same as an hour.
Usually not for small jobs. The industry norm is payment on completion for work under about $1,000, and a deposit of 10 to 30 percent on larger projects or special-order materials. A deposit of more than half up front, or a demand for cash only, is a warning sign.
Either, and it changes the price. Handymen mark up materials they supply by 20 to 50 percent. Buying from a written list the pro gives you saves that markup; letting the pro shop saves you a trip and puts the responsibility for the right part on them.
Because the quotes include different things. Liability insurance, background checks, a written warranty and real employees all cost money and show up in the hourly rate. The lowest quote is usually missing at least one of them, and the difference matters most when a repair fails.
Patch drywall by matching the method to the hole: spackle for nail and screw holes, a self-adhesive mesh patch for holes under 4 inches, a California patch cut from scrap drywall for 4 to 8 inches, and a new piece screwed to backing strips for anything larger. Every method ends the same way: three thin coats of joint compound, a light sanding, matched texture, primer and paint. Materials cost $15 to $60; a pro charges $75 to $500 in 2026. Here is each method, by size.
Press lightweight spackle into the hole with a putty knife, scrape it flush, let it dry 30 minutes, and sand lightly. For nail pops, where a screw head has pushed through the paper, drive a new drywall screw an inch above and below the pop, set the old fastener slightly below the surface, and cover all three with compound. Prime the spots before painting or they will flash through as dull patches.
A doorknob through the wall is the classic case. Cut away loose paper, stick a self-adhesive mesh patch centered over the hole, and spread a thin coat of joint compound over it with a 6-inch knife, pressing the compound through the mesh. Let it dry, then apply a second and third coat with a 10 or 12-inch knife, feathering each coat 2 to 3 inches wider than the last so the edges disappear. Sand between coats with 150-grit. Total drying time is about a day; working time is under 30 minutes. Install a door stop before painting or the same doorknob makes the same hole.
Square the hole with a drywall saw. Cut a piece of drywall 2 inches larger than the hole in each direction, then on its back score and snap away the gypsum 1 inch in from every edge, leaving the front paper intact as a flange. The plug fits the hole and the paper flange lies flat on the wall. Butter the flange with compound, press it in, and skim over it; then coat and feather as above. No backing strips, no screws, and the paper flange gives a flatter result than a mesh patch at this size.
Cut the damaged area back to a clean rectangle. Screw two strips of 1×3 or scrap plywood inside the wall cavity behind the top and bottom edges so they overlap the opening by an inch each side; they become the backing. Cut a new piece of 1/2-inch drywall to fit, screw it to the backing every 6 inches, tape the seams with paper or mesh tape, and apply three feathered coats. Wet or moldy drywall is always cut out, never patched over.
A perfectly flat patch on an orange peel or knockdown wall is visible from the doorway. Match the texture with a spray can of orange peel or knockdown texture, practicing on cardboard first, and knock down with a wide knife after a few minutes for knockdown walls. Texture and paint blending is most of what a professional drywall repair charges for, and it is the step DIY repairs most often skip.
Nail holes and doorknob holes are a $20 afternoon with spackle or a mesh patch and three thin coats. Holes from 4 to 8 inches take a California patch; bigger ones need backing and a new piece. If the wall has texture, budget the time to match it or the patch will show. Pro prices run $100 to $250 for a small hole and $400 to $1,200 for a sheet in 2026, with texture matching the part most worth paying for.
Yes, up to about 2 feet across. Cut the hole square, screw wood backing strips inside the wall, fit a new drywall piece to the backing, tape and coat the seams. Beyond 2 feet, or anywhere the drywall is water-damaged, replace the section between studs.
$75 to $150 for a round of nail holes, $100 to $250 for a doorknob-sized hole, $150 to $500 for holes of 4 to 12 inches, and $400 to $1,200 for a full sheet in 2026. Matching a textured finish adds $100 to $300. DIY materials for the same repairs run $15 to $60.
Working time is 20 to 40 minutes per small patch, but drying between coats sets the schedule: about 24 hours for three coats of compound, plus texture and paint the next day. Fast-setting compound cuts a small repair to a single afternoon.
Because the patch is flatter than the textured wall around it, the compound was not primed and flashes through, or the touch-up paint does not match the aged wall. Match the texture, prime the patch, and paint the whole wall corner to corner.
Fix a squeaky door hinge by pulling one hinge pin at a time, wiping it clean, coating it with white lithium grease or a light machine oil, and tapping it back in. The squeak is bare metal rubbing inside the hinge knuckle, and a coated pin ends it for a year or more. It takes two minutes, a hammer and a nail, and the door stays hanging. Below, the steps, what to use and what not to, and the one case where a squeak is a warning.
WD-40 stops a squeak instantly and returns it in two to four weeks. It is a water-displacing solvent with a thin lubricant; it cleans the pin, then evaporates and leaves the metal dry. For a lasting fix use a product that stays: white lithium grease is the standard for hinges, 3-in-1 oil or any light machine oil works, silicone spray lasts a few months, and petroleum jelly or bar soap will do on a pin you can pull out. Avoid cooking oil, which goes rancid and gummy, and avoid spraying anything into a hinge without pulling the pin, because it never reaches the knuckle where the noise lives.
A hinge that squeaks again a week after a proper greasing is worn, not dry. Look for a pin with grooves worn into it, a knuckle that has ovaled out, or a hinge leaf that moves on its screws. Combined with a door that drags on the floor, rubs the frame at the top of the latch side, or has stopped latching, that is a sagging door, and the fix is tightening the hinge screws, driving a 3-inch screw through the top hinge into the stud, or replacing the hinge. Hinges cost $3 to $8 each; a door that has sagged enough to gouge the frame or split the jamb is a door repair job at $85 to $200. Exterior doors with squeaky, sagging hinges also lose their weather seal, which shows up on the heating bill before it shows up on the door.
Pull one pin, clean it, grease it, tap it back: two minutes and the squeak is gone for a year. Use lithium grease or light oil, not WD-40. If the squeak returns quickly or the door has started to drag or miss the latch, the hinge is worn or the door is sagging, and a $5 hinge or a 3-inch screw is the real fix.
White lithium grease, applied to the pulled pin. It stays on the metal for a year or more and does not drip. Light machine oil such as 3-in-1 is a close second. WD-40 works for a few weeks and then the squeak returns because it evaporates.
Sometimes, briefly. Spraying silicone or oil into the top of the knuckle while swinging the door reaches part of the pin and quiets it for a few weeks. Pulling the pin so the whole shaft is cleaned and coated is what lasts, and it takes about the same two minutes.
Because the pin or knuckle is worn, or the hinge is carrying weight it was not set for. Grooves on the pin, an ovaled knuckle, loose hinge screws and a door that drags or misses the latch all point to a sagging door. Replace the hinge ($3 to $8) and drive a 3-inch screw through the top hinge into the stud.
$85 to $200 for a pro visit in 2026, which usually covers hinge replacement, screw tightening, rehanging and latch alignment on one or two doors. Hinges themselves are $3 to $8 each, so the cost is the labor, not the parts.
Stucco crack repair costs $200 to $800 for hairline cracks on one wall in 2026, and $600 to $2,650 when a crack has let water behind the stucco, with a national average near $900 per repair visit, or $8 to $50 per square foot. The width and pattern of the crack tell you which price you face, and whether it is cosmetic or structural. Below, how to read the crack, what each repair costs, and when to call an engineer instead of a patcher.
| Repair | Low | Typical | High |
|---|---|---|---|
| Hairline cracks sealed, one wall, elastomeric | $200 | $500 | $800 |
| Crack sealing, per linear foot | $19 | $21 | $23 |
| Patch a hole, chip or corner, texture matched | $200 | $450 | $800 |
| Repair with new lath and paper, water damage | $600 | $1,600 | $2,650 |
| Re-stucco a wall, per 250 square feet | $1,500 | $2,000 | $3,000 |
| Elastomeric coat over a repaired wall, per sq ft | $3 | $4.50 | $6 |
Texture is the hidden line item. A patch that is flush and sealed but wears a different texture is visible from the street. A good stucco repair matches the existing finish, whether sand, dash or lace, and feathers the color so the repair disappears; that skill is why patching costs more than the bag of mix suggests.
Cosmetic cracks are sealed with an elastomeric caulk or patch that stretches with the wall, then painted; DIY materials run $50 to $120 for a wall. Settling cracks get the same fill plus a six-month watch; if the pencil marks are passed, the movement is ongoing and a foundation contractor should look at drainage and soil. Structural cracks are not a stucco problem. A structural engineer’s evaluation costs $350 to $900 and produces the repair plan; the stucco is fixed last, after the movement is stopped. Patching a structural crack first hides the evidence and wastes the patch.
Plan on $200 to $800 to seal hairline cracks and $600 to $2,650 if water has gotten behind the wall in 2026. Measure the crack: under 1/8 inch, seal it this season; over 1/4 inch or stair-stepped, call an engineer before a patcher. Sealing early is the whole game, because a $500 seal today is what prevents the $2,000 lath repair next year.
Yes. Cracks under 1/8 inch wide are shrinkage and thermal movement, and nearly every stucco home has them. They are cosmetic, but they should be sealed with an elastomeric product so rain cannot reach the paper and lath behind the finish coat.
$200 to $800 for hairline cracks on a typical wall in 2026, or about $19 to $23 per linear foot professionally. Patching holes and chips runs $200 to $800, and repairs where water reached the lath cost $600 to $2,650.
When it is wider than 1/4 inch, runs diagonally or in a stair-step pattern, has one side raised above the other, or keeps growing after being filled. Those patterns point to foundation or framing movement and call for a structural engineer, $350 to $900, before any patching.
Hairline cracks, yes. Clean the crack, fill it with an elastomeric stucco patch or caulk, texture it with a sponge and paint. Materials cost $50 to $120 per wall. Holes, water damage and anything with a hollow sound behind it need the lath repaired, which is a professional job.
No price games. You get a clear written quote before any work begins, backed by our workmanship warranty.
